Mt. Hagen is the poorest, dirtiest town we have encountered in our travels. There is trash everywhere, all the shops are battened down with guards and shutters, and residences are walled in. It is not someplace that is safe for a tourist to walk around unescorted. On the other hand, we went to the local produce market with our guide, Raphael; and encountered smiles and people proudly posing for pictures. We were clearly welcomed, and I regret we didn't have the opportunity to go back. I was particularly impressed by the character expressed in the faces we saw.